Poukai

Yesterday, we attended at Poukai with Aunty Kim's family at one of the King's marae in Huntly.   Poukai is a ceremony that originated in 1884 by King Taawhiao and eventually spread to many other marae throughout the country.  It's purpose was for the King to spend time with the widows, widowers, and those who had recently lost a loved one to help aid in the grieving and healing process.  Traditionally, people brought kai (food) and a big feast occured.  However, in modern times, each person donates money that contributes to the cost of the food that the hosts prepare. 

We slept over at Aunty Kim's house on Thursday night and got an early start the next morning.  We arrived at the marae at about 9:00 am, and of course met with the other manuhiri (visitors).  Aunty Kim and her family were part of the tangata whenua (family) so they entered the marae first.  We greeted many of the mātua of the manuhiri who were all gathered waiting for the Poukai to commence.  Everyone was dressed in black (or dark colors) and many were adorned with pounamu jewelry.  Whaea Pare, Aunty Kim and Uncle Hotu's close friend who accompanied us for the Poukai, explained to us about the dress.  She said that you could tell where a person was from by the color of accessories they wore.  People from the Waikato region had scarves and blankets with a dark green plaid pattern, people from the Rotorua region had blue accessories, such as scarves, or hat adornments.  The ceremony started at about 10 am with a whakaeke, movement of visitors onto the marae.  A band of school children led the manuhiri into the marae playing a well known Maori hymn.


The ceremony begun with a pōwhiri.  Karakia were exchanged between the tangata whenua and the manuhiri.  After the karakia, we sat along one side of the marae in chairs and benches facing the family of the Kingi.  People from both sides gave their whaikōrero (speeches).  A member of the tangata whenua start off and then the speaking duty goes back and forth between the tangata whenua and the manuhiri speakers.  However, there were more manuhiri speakers than tangata whenua, but the last speaker of the pōwhiri needs to be from the tangata whenua.  So, all the speakers of the manuhiri spoke and then the last tangata whenua speaker gave his whaikōrero.  This was the longest part of the day.  All the speeches were delivered in Maori and the entire process was about 2.5 hours long.  I started to go cross-eyed.  It helped that Whaea Pare explained to us what the speakers were saying :)

After the whaikōrero, we participated in the hariru (greetings) with the tangata whenua.  All the manuhiri stood in a long line and we exchanged hongi or honi with each member of the tangata whenua.  We even got to hongi with the Maori King!!! :)

After the hariru, it was time for kai! Yippee!  The manuhiri entered first into the Whare Kai (eating house).  The tables were lined with Maori delicacies including raw mussels, boil up, roast, beef, potatos, and tuna (long finned eel).  I had wanted to try all these foods :)  Everything was pretty good, except the eel.  It looked like it was going to taste like dried aku, but definitely didn't.  It was squishy when you bit into it, and it tasted.... different.  Let's just say I could only handle one bite of it... barely.

After the kai, we went back outside and sat down in our usual spot.  During this time, people were free to give speeches about whatever they felt, which usually resulted in talking about tribal affairs.  It became very political.

Overall, it was a GREAT experience and I'm so happy we got to partake in it :)